Green Technologies

15:30 - 14:00

An Adaptogenic Approach for Skin Health and Well-Being

Modern consumers are health-minded and efficacy-driven. To meet their needs, CLR Berlin developed a highly effective and sustainable solution for increased skin health and well-being. It provides the skin with means to establish a sustainable homeostatic balance. The adaptogenic action of AnnonaSense CLR supports the endocannabinoid system (ECS) by activating the CB2 receptor. Inflammatory processes induced by the TRPV1 receptor, part of the skin’s endovanilloid system (EVS) are down regulated and a stable balance between the ECS and EVS is established. The product makes the skin less sensitive and more balanced, even itch could perceivably be reduced. Skin appearance becomes clearly better and a consumer study showed that perception of well-being and quality of life were improved. AnnonaSense CLR is obtained from Annona Cherimola, common name Cherimoya, an edible fruit originating from South America.

16:00 - 16:30

Sun Protection – Secrets from the Oceans

Topical sunscreens enhance human health by reducing sunburn and skin cancer. However, there is growing concern with their use as there is evidence now that synthetic organic filters can damage the environment and be possibly harmful to humans, sufficient that 8 out of the 16 most commonly used sun filters currently licensed for use in the EU are now listed in the Community Rolling Action Plan (CoRAP) of the European Chemical Agency (ECHA) for safety evaluation over the next 3 years. This has rekindled the search for safe biocompatible sunscreens. Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a family of >20 secondary metabolites commonly produced by marine algae and seaweeds that reside in shallow-water environments, which are typically exposed to high levels of solar radiation. By virtue of dietary accumulation from the marine food chain, MAAs are found also in the tissues of some marine vertebrates, such as fish. MAAs are highly photostable, absorb solar UV radiation (UVR) and have antioxidant properties, allowing MAAs to protect cells from UVR and free-radical damage. We demonstrate that palythine (from the edible South East Asian seaweed Chondrus yendoi – Japanese “Buddha’s ear”) is an effective biocompatible photoprotective sunscreen, preventing impairment against a number of UVR induced endpoints, including cell viability, DNA damage, oxidative stress and differential gene expression linked to photo-ageing and inflammation. Commercial development of palythine for use in a personal care composition [1] having the designated trademark Dermagie® will be discussed also.

[1] Long PF, Young AR, Lawrence KP. Compositions and methods using palythine. Patent application number PCT/GB2016/052227. Priority date 23/7/15. Filing date 22/7/16. Publication date 26/1/17.

16:30 - 17:00

Natural Fragrances

With the current trend towards natural and sustainable products it is essential to be both robust and transparent in our definitions of ‘natural’, and what this means for raw materials used to create natural fragrances.

Fragrances are a complex mixture of ingredients and to create sophisticated fragrances that enhance a product’s appeal perfumers must be given the widest possible palette of materials. The simple request for a ‘natural’ fragrance belies the amount of information required to be gathered from raw materials suppliers to even begin the process of creation. The principles of sustainability may not always align with what may be considered ‘natural’ and natural aromachemicals must also be considered, with clear definitions for what are and are not acceptable practices and processes.

Due to this complexity recognised standards for natural & organic products, alongside the often confused marketing claims made by brands, do not always offer clarity when faced with the binary question: ‘is this fragrance natural?’

This presentation will discuss the approach CPL Aromas has taken in developing a robust policy which is the basis for the creation of 100% natural fragrances.